2/55 temples in Burma are under the care of Chettiars. Interested in knowing what happened to the 53 others? For people who have read Part 1, 2 and 3 of my blog on history of Chettiars in Burma, this blog (Part 4) will take you on a short trip to Myanmar. This is going to be a pretty long one.
Exterior of Pasumanthan Murugan temple.
Before stepping into Myanmar, I had plans of visiting only Aaru Arai. My grandfather listed a couple of places that he wanted to visit and one of them was Pasumanthan. Being an internet geek, the first thing you would do - is to google. I googled. For once, I found 0 search results for Pasumanthan in Google. Seriouslllyyyyyy???? Is there something that google doesnt know? I was taken aback.
To my surprise, after meeting Ramanathan aiya and taking a photograph of the documents, I ended up scouting for as many Chetty temples as I could in 5 days. Alas! I needed a couple of weeks more :(
Pasumanthan
Ramanathan Aiya directed us reach to Pasumanthan temple. Construction of a flyover required us to do a 5 mins walk to reach the temple. In a silent Indian locality, this phenomenal religious place stood majestically. This place withstood the World War II. (In one of the documents Ramanathan Aiya shared, there was a mention of the war damages on Pasumanthan). This is one of the 2 still-Chettiar maintained temple. Sorry! I am not sure if 'maintained' is the right word, as the temple was in quite a bad condition. Freshly pained exteriors doesnt mean everything inside is in the same condition.
When I stepped in, Abhishegam was going on. I also met another 90+ year old aiya and a few other caretakers of the temple. The current care-takers are off-springs of Burmese ladies after their wedlock with Chettiars.
Pasumanthan Madam
Exterior view
Having heard of how Thai pusam is celebrated at Pasumanthan madam, I was intrigued to visit the madam. One of the care-takers offered to take us to the legendary madam, at a walk-able distance. This is usually where Karthigai annadhanam happened historically. Now, it is opened only once a year, for Thai Pusam.
It was a mammoth complex, with atleast an acre of open space around it. I stepped into a bleaching powder covered flooring and 'Goosebumps!'. Such huge madam. Typical Chettinad architecture. Moppu, Valavu, Periya aalveedu, Chinna aalveedu, Rendangattu, melveedu. There was a separate hall for the God.
It was getting ready for the festival. A couple, care-takers reside in the tent built of asbestos in the madam complex. They told me that the madam is opened only during Thaipusam and it stays locked for the rest of the year. My heart sinks in - I wish this was maintained well and cherished as Chettiar's heritage site. I wish Chettiars preserved their heritage better. My brain does a reality check - There are people who dont even take care of their own houses in the natives. But even if a few wanted to do this, the local Government should support the efforts. We never know what is the destiny of this architectural marvel which has withstood centuries in a foreign land.
Thai Pusam
A festive which marks the annual meeting of Pasumanthan Thendayuthapani and Aaru Arai Murugan at Pasumanthan Madam. This is the only annual occasion when Pasumanthan Madam is opened, cleaned and celebrated as a heritage. A week long festive which sees 3000 - 5000 local Hindus gathering at the madam. Erstwhile, the celebration included eminent Indian religious speakers addressing the gathering among other cultural nights.
I also got lucky to capture a few pictures of the madam getting ready for Thaipusam. There was a fresh arasani kaal. The care-takers also opened the Hall with the Swami arai. Thendayuthapani's Annual Getaway during the festive. There is a small Brahma inside the Swami arai.
Hall 2
Entrance to the Swami hall from back door
Swami Hall
Swami arai with Brahma
The madam and Pasumanthan temple is split by a railway track and a flyover. On the way back from the madam, the care-taker flipped another interesting fact that the madam and the temple were in the same complex. Government of Myanmar took control of the piece of land in between the two half a century ago for the nation's development.
Mandalay (Maandhalai)
My next destination was Bagan and Mandalay. The 2 cities had their own rich Buddhist heritage. To me, Bagan was more of a Buddhist facsimile of Siem Reap, the Hindu counterpart. Mandalay was a well-built city on the banks of the iconic Irravaddy River.
After the usual visit to the fort and a few more pagodas, I remember the list of 55 Chetty temples. I started on my journey to find Thendayuthapani temple of Mandalay. My Burmese driver did not know where I was taking him. We went around the city thrice searching for the temple. Inquired in every street. Locals directed us to a Krishna temple. We got down there and started asking door-to-door. At last, there was a local tamil who offered to take us to the temple. He took us to the care-taker of the temple, who was running a China imported hardware shop.
Re-building the history
The care-taker took 20 minutes to bring the keys and finally, we were set on our way. An under-construction board, in the middle of the city - junction of 22nd and 81st street. The care-taker starts off by telling us that the Chettiars handed over this temple to his ancestors in 1960s. There were consecutive Kittangis similar to aaru arai in Yangon which were demolished by fire in early 1970s. After 5 decades, the local tamils have decided to rebuild the temple. Unless you tell him that you are a Chettiar, the probability of him telling that the temple belonged to Chettiar once is 0.1. Such is the state of our history. A couple of decades later, the probability that his off-springs would know the history is 0. May be a small kalvettu that this temple was built by Chettiars would have made me content.
Kambai
Mandalay intrigued me to find a few more temples in the list of 55. Though my initial plan was to stay at Yankin to enjoy Inye lake. A closer look at the map of Yankin showed me a station called Kanbe. I remember reading a few documents at Aaru Arai with Ramanathan Aiya. One of them said there is a madam at Kambai (Kanbe sounded similar to Kambai). Third temple on the list of 55 was Siva Subramaniar Devasthanam. I ran to the reception to ask them about Hindu temples in the vicinity. They marked 4 temples on the map. I decided to walk to the first - It was a Venkatachalapathy temple and his thirukalyanam was happening. The locals were very friendly. The prasadham after thirukalyanam was yummy. Our driver arrived, we had to leave for Inye lake.
I couldnt give up. On our way back, I re-started my search for Siva Subramaniar Devasthanam. The second on the map was it! Eureka!!! I found it. Yes, a massive, newly renovated, very clean, tidy and well-maintained complex. A quick scanning of all the available kalvettu, no mentions of Chetty history. I was used to it by now with a heavy heart. The kalvettus had an unending list of people who donated for the kumbabeshigam which happened in 2016. Subramaniar is celebrated on Chitra Pournami. He is taken out in his Radham on the street. After a short conversation, the priest revealed that the entire street once belonged to Chettiars and this was a Chetty temple. It was handed over to the locals in 1960s.
Kambai Chetty madam
On the back of my mind, the next thing I wanted to find was the madam in Kambai. I knew the madam was in the vicinity of the temple. 20 metres away from the temple, I found another Chettinad architectural marvel. Another huge complex in the worst condition. The empty ground has been sub-let temporarily to a Chinese construction firm. The firm has set up its temporary office for a construction nearby. Unlike Pasumanthan, this was not managed by Chettiars anymore.
Typical madam with a long moppu and thinnais (there were a few local tamils sitting there), hall, rendangattu, kitchen space, melveedu. The locals still call this as Chetty madam. This legendary site is where the 'First Nagarathar Conference' happened. Today it is in the worst state possible - cracks on the floor, walls and 90% of the windows do not exists. Almost about to collapse. Unlike Pasumanthan, there were in-house occupants inside this madam and is frequently used by the locals for weddings, dhevasams, Chitra Pournami celebrations, schooling, etc on a daily basis.
We met the care-taker. He claimed himself as the son of the advocate who worked with Chettiars in early 1900s. Chettiars trusted the responsibility of the madam's care-taking to his family in 1960s. In 1970s, when they wanted to relieve themselves of their responsibility, Chettiars offered the madam to the temple itself. There is a significant revenue that is being generated from the madam's property today. He vows to renovate the madam very soon. I wonder what is soon?!!
Chowttan Thendayuthapani
Before boarding my flights to Penang Thaipusam, I wanted to visit Pilikan Muneswarar temple. I took a grab car and went to Pilikan. Muneswarar and Amman temple were located in a serene environment, surrounded by paddy fields. On the way back, I saw another temple tower and I requested my driver to take me there. This was another unbelievable vast complex with a kulam, temple and thottam with care-takers shelters. Such a treat to your eyes. Beautiful, silent and serene temple. I totally fell in love with it.
The architecture hinted Chettinad temples. We did not know which of the 55 temples this was. The priest said the current name of the town, we could not find it on the list. Then I showed him the list on my phone - he pointed to the Burmese script in the list, this temple was called Chowttan historically. Thendayuthapani here celebrated ThiruKarthigai every year.
Even today in Malaysia, Thaipusam is celebrated in Penang, ThiruKarthigai is celebrated in Klang, Masi magam is celebrated in Muar, Vaigasi Visaakam is celebrated in Batu Pahat, Chitra pournami is celebrated in Teluk Intan, Panguni Uttram is celebrated in KL. Though not many Chettiars live in Myanmar, the local tamils still follow the same order that our ancestors established and celebrate one festival in each city - Thaipusam in Pasumanthan and aaru arai, Chitra pournami in Kambai, Thiru Karthigai in Chowttan. I wish I saw all of them.
Relax! I hear your mind voice "Thankfully, Divya visited only 5/55." I understand and I am sorry this was long. That is all. I managed to summarize my experience in 5/55 Chetty temples of Burma.
Stay tuned! I have more...
Coming up next - Mushrooming saviors!
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